The northern and central
regions of Botswana are the sites of some of the best
game viewing in the world. Several
different ecosystems coexist in this area –
each worthy of a visit of two or more
nights. No Self-Fly Safari® taken with game viewing in mind is complete
without a visit to northern Botswana.
The main areas of focus are the Okavango Delta, Chobe National Park, and the Makgadikgadi
Pans. Maun and Kasane – two small but thriving towns in north central Botswana -- are
the main staging points for safaris into northern Botswana and crossroads for transport
and commerce north into Africa.
The Okavango Delta is one of the world’s major inland deltas. It is formed by the
Okavango River, which rises in the eastern Angola highlands and flows into northwestern
Botswana. But, instead of flowing onwards to the sea, the Okavango water fans out over
thousands of square miles bringing life and lush greenery to the otherwise arid Kalahari
Desert. Then it evaporates. The Okavango is a river with no mouth. The Delta is a
fan-shaped wilderness, a shallow depression of forest, stream, pool, and lagoons with
myriad labyrinthine channels. On the surface, usually in a flat-bottomed boat or a dugout
canoe, it is often impossible to see more than a few feet due to the tall reeds and
papyrus that proliferate in the marshland.
From the air it is often impossible to distinguish between marsh and solid ground. Except
for the airfields at Maun and Kasane, there are no useful ground-based navigation aids. In
the days before GPS, navigating to airstrips in the largely featureless terrain required
hard-learned knowledge of the area and well-honed ded-reckoning and pilotage skills.
Landing strips here tend to be dirt, grass or calcrete (a compacted calcium-rich hard
surface). Delta strips are usually level, but some are rough, some are narrow, and some
are as short as 2200 feet (700 meters). All airstrips are adequate for the aircraft used
for the Safari.
The Delta is not a major big-game viewing area. It is, nevertheless, unique and
extraordinary, and a rewarding Self-Fly Safari® destination. It will appeal to
naturalists, photographers, and anyone who can appreciate solitude and unspoiled beauty.
With more than 400 different species of birds in residence, the Delta offers rich bird
watching experience. Anglers will enjoy fishing for bream and tigerfish at some Delta
camps.
But exceedingly good Big Game viewing opportunities abound at peripheral locations on the
Delta. Chief’s Island, the Moremi Wildlife Reserve, and the Linyanti Swamp –
north of Maun – are good examples of such areas.
Farther north, with access provided through Kasane, is the Chobe National Park. Though
Chobe extends far to the south, during the driest season its most spectacular area is
narrow strip of land west of Kasane on the southern bank of the Chobe River. During the
dry winter months elephants migrate north to drink and browse around the river. The
assembled multitude of elephants is an extraordinary sight. It is a public park, not a
private game reserve. You will be viewing from a landrover, or riverboat, with other
visitors. In our experience, the power of the spectacle far outweighs any distraction from
other vehicles in the vicinity. Other animals including predators and antelope are also in
the vicinity.
The Makgadikgadi Pans Game Reserve – once a super lake -- represents something unlike
anything you will see elsewhere (except at Namibia’s famous Etosha Pan). The Reserve
is made up of two vast salt flats and surrounding grass and woodland savanna. It is not a
regarded as a big game area. The area does support a large wildlife population but animal
migration makes game viewing unreliable. A decision to visit the Pans should be prompted
by a desire for a complete desert experience – including geology, archeology, and
anthropology of the area. It is yet another face of African wilderness.
In the cooler winter months (May – September) the cracked-dry pans shimmer under the
blazing sun. Summer rains (November – April) turn the salt flats into a muddy morass.
The pans are transformed into a game rich wonderland. Huge flocks of waterfowl along with
large numbers of game animals congregate at the pans to enjoy the bounty of water and
resources.
Though pilots can overfly much of the pans, landing an aircraft on them is not permitted
(except in emergency). Aircraft land at a designated airstrip. Safari participants are met
and taken to their destination by camp landrover.
Recommendation: Two or more nights at each of two venues.
CLICK ON ANY LODGE THAT IS UNDERLINED AND BLUE TO VISIT THE LODGE'S WEB SITE
CHIEF’S CAMP - Chief’s Island. (land and water)
This camp is located in the Delta’s prime game viewing area, considered the
“predator capitol” of Africa. Guests are accommodated in 12 luxury tents with
a private balcony and ensuite facilities. Main lodge is located under a canopy
of Jackalberry, Sausage and Rain trees with a view over the floodplain. Run by
Sanctuary Lodges, the sister camp, Stanley’s Camp offers a special experience
with 2 tame elephants.
CHOBE CHILWERO –
northern Chobe National Park
Kasane Airport
In the Setswana language, the word "chilwero" refers to the vista before you. No
lack of appreciation here. See over the Chobe River... far... past the flood plain and
grasslands, and behold the Big Sky exploding sunset. In the dry season, (August -
November) this is where thirsty animals come. Particularly the elephants. Noah could have
built his ark here. And, if he’d had resident Guide "Alec" Setswalo as his
spotter, he would have saved himself time gathering animals. Ask for him – he’s
one of the best in the business. Dinner, a convivial affair, brings guests and hosts
together around a single table in a cozy candle-lit room downstairs. Have an after-dinner
drink around the campfire and retire for the evening to a spacious, thatched A-frame
bungalow set around the manicured grounds.
DUBA PLAINS LODGE -- northern
Okavango
Omdop airstrip
It's really an island in the far northern Okavango. Sitting on a deck chair at the Duba
Plains Lodge, gazing over the shimmering grasslands before you, you'll think you're in the
middle of nowhere. You're right. It's a long way in every direction to anything. You need
an airplane here. You landed on an airstrip but, on this savanna, did you really need one?
(Yes. Always use the airstrip). And when the Okavango floods, you need a makoro, too. In
fact, you need a whole lot of things... but the Lodge takes care of it all.
It's an African wilderness camp with a difference. You'll sleep soundly, sheltered in a
canvas tent, pitched on a platform overlooking the floodplain, with your private bathroom
and hot shower -- open to the African sky. Water or land – depending on the season
and rainfall. The day's sitings are the main topic of dinner conversation. Your meals are
served under a lamp-lighted canopy of ebony and garcinia trees with guests, guides, and
hosts all seated together. Afterwards, relax by the fire, count the stars, and count your
blessings. A small, quiet place, with attention to personal service. Rare.
FRANCISTOWN - Cresta Thapama Hotel
Centrally located in Francistown, the Thapama is a good choice for an overnight. Besides
lovely accommodations it has a a health and sports center as well as a casino.
The Marang
Located on the banks of the Tati River, the Marang is a comfortable hotel, also part of
the Cresta Chain of Hotels and resorts.. It has a very fine a la carte restaurant. A
casino is an added entertainment.
GUDIGWA CAMP,
OKAVANGO DELTA, BOTSWANA
Gudigwa is a camp that focuses on
learning about the Bushman people. Gudigwa Village, about 2 miles from the camp
is a settlement of about 800 San Bushman whose original territory is the
Okavango Delta. This camp has been set up to benefit this community. Activities
include walks to learn about the medicinal uses of plants, how to discover
underground water, and how to survive off the resources in the Delta. Villagers
also perform dances, tell stories in their native tongue and cook local dishes
to sample. Accommodation is in cozy grass huts modeled after bushman shelters.
They have beds, solar lighting, with a toilet and hot shower.
GUNN’S CAMP – Ntswi Island -- southern Delta
Private airstrip
Gunn’s chief pilot in Maun briefed us (obligatory) before we set out for the short,
narrow, dirt strip. It can be tricky. At the camp airstrip, four women met us and carried
our bags to the spacious comfortable tent where we spent the night. We went directly to
the elevated bar for a welcome drink as the sun set. Set low in the Delta near Maun, the
Okavango floodwaters had not yet reached Gunn’s Camp. We set out the next morning
with our guide on foot and were able to walk in an otherwise inaccessible area.
JACK’S CAMP -- Makgadikgadi Pans
Private airstrip
Golden grasslands, shimmering saltpans, desert palms. A complete desert experience and
unique offering: explore the Kalahari. It’s geology and archeology, contemporary
inhabitants and their dwellings, its wildlife, by day and night. By landrover and on foot.
And, in season, an immense wetland. Old-school Africa tented luxury at the oasis.
JEDIBE ISLAND CAMP – Okavango Delta
Private airstrip
A luxury, tented camp in the heart of the Delta, located in a region of permanent water.
Known for waterborne activity and not for big game. All animal viewing is by makoro, power
boat, or on foot. Paradise for birders --malachite kingfisher, swamp boubou, coppertailed
Coucal, Pel’s fishing owl – as well as hippo, crocodile and Cape clawless otter!
KINGS POOL CAMP – Linyanti
River
Private airstrip
A neat spot. Another one. Behind you, to the horizon south, is Chobe National Park. At
your feet, the lush Kings Pool Lagoon -- teeming with life. To the north, across the
Lagoon and Linyanti River, are the flood plains of Namibia’s eastern Caprivi Strip.
To paraphrase, you're sitting between heaven and a nice place. You need go no farther --
and yet you haven't left the private deck of your safari tent. Resist the temptation to
sit. There are more than 300,000 acres of wilderness to explore: open grassland, riverine
forest, wooded savanna. By boat, by landrover, on foot, or from a lounge chair on your
private deck. Anyway you like it. Emphasis on elephant, and the cats, and hippo, and
croc's... The list goes on.
KWANDO LAGOON or LEBALA CAMP, Kwando River,
just North of Okavango Delta, Botswana
Private airstrip
Lagoon Camp lies on the shady banks of
the Kwando River shaded by tall Ebony and Marula trees. Accommodation is in 6
Safari tents with ensuite facilities. Day and night game drives . A double deck
boat is also used for game viewing. Excellent area to catch tiger fish.
Lebala Camp located a few kilometers away is surrounded by the Linyanti
marshes. Accommodation is in 8 Safari tents with ensuite facilities. The area
surrounding Lagoon and Lebala is home to large herds of elephant and buffalo as
well as many antelope species. Predators such as lions, leopard cheetah and wild
dog are in this area.
MAUN - Cresta Riley's Hotel
The hotel is comfortable, centrally located, and a pleasant choice for an overnight. The
food is good, the bar friendly, and the staff accommodating. It is a lively hotel, and
often has quite a good crowd at the bar. This hotel has a good African vibe to it, with
opportunities to mix with locals who are at the bar.
MOMBO CAMP – Chief’s
Island
Private airstrip
Located just off the north-western tip of Chiefs
Island, Mombo is the premier game viewing camp in all of southern Africa. There
are large concentrations of game in that area and it is not unusual to see over
10 game species from the verandah of the camp. It is well-known for its
predators including cheetah and wild dog, besides elephant and the balance of
the Big Five. Game viewing is done either in a land rover or on foot as well as
from the comfort of your room. Accommodations are in large tented rooms raised
off the ground on decks with ensuite bathroom and indoor and outdoor showers.
Excellent views over the plains from each room.
MOWANA SAFARI LODGE - Chobe National Park
The Lodge is built on the banks of the Chobe River. A very lovely lodge from which to
explore the Chobe National Park. All 104 rooms are well equipped and river facing. They
have many activities available to guests which include game viewing from boats or open-air
vehicles; tiger fishing, swimming, hiking, and special breakfast and sunset cruises.
NXABEGA -
Okavango Delta
Private
airstrip
Nxabega is on the edge of the permanent Okavango Delta consisting of
Mopane, Riverine, Palm and Acacia woodlands, perennial swamp and seasonally
flooded grassland. The lodge is nestled under dense stands of African Ebony and
Strangler Fig overlooking a seasonal floodplain. Plunge pool. Accommodation in
large luxury tents raised on a teak platform with private sundeck. All tents
are ensuite with shower and flush toilets.
www.ccafrica.com
NXAMASERI LODGE, Tsodilo Hills – Okavango Delta
Nxamaseri airstrip
It is not a "big game" area. This is for fishing, birding, and tranquillity. In
the northwestern reaches of the Okavango Delta the Panhandle is an area of fast-flowing
water. To the southeast, it branches, slows, and spreads over tens-of-thousands of square
miles bringing life to the desert. Then it evaporates.
The Nxamaseri airstrip, offset from the center of a narrow cut in the woods, brought us to
full alert...
The boat landing at the Nxamaseri Lodge brings to mind a scene from "The African
Queen". From the dock we stepped up to the bar, quenched our thirst, and later made
our way to the open thatched chalet. We watched the sun set beyond the flood plain from
our seats on the wooden deck...
We polled slowly through a parting in the marsh, reeds scraping the sides of the mokoro,
following a path made by a grazing hippo. The 10-foot tall papyrus blocked our view of the
sky. The water isn't deep but it's alive with creatures of all sizes. Some benign, some
not. Another push and we glide into an open pool -- floating on a carpet of pastel lilies,
bathed in sunshine, and silent, except for the ensemble of birds. The water is pure enough
to drink. Nothing like it this side of Thailand.
Tsodilo Hills: Camping: you, a Guide, and a fully- served overnight camp around a fire in
a wooded site in Bushman country. Explore the hills and discover ancient Bushman
paintings. Organized by Nxamaseri Lodge, by prior arrangement.
SANDIBE – lower Okavango Delta
Private airstrip
Accessible only by aircraft. The lodge is shaded under an ancient grove of riverine trees
along a waterway bordered by papyrus and reeds. Central dining area and bar. Plunge pool.
Game walks and drives, river cruises, makoro excursions. Luxury cottages: screened
windows, overhead fan, private verandah, elevated viewing deck. Just right for a private,
intimate dinner. West facing to the sunset. The extraordinary night sky is rivaled only by
the extraordinary daytime sky above the surrounding grassy plains.
SELINDA – Linyanti River, northern Delta
Private airstrip
A gem in the wilderness -- and a place where you need an aircraft. Otherwise you’d
never get here. We put up in the raised, tented camp while the set out for what
they’d really come for – a guided, two-night trek into the bush and flood
plains. They were rewarded with hundreds of buffalo and other wild encounters. We were
rewarded with one of the most serene settings imaginable – and game of all sorts that
moved across our view. Small, intimate, and rewarding.
STANLEY’S
CAMP a small gem
of a camp
consisting of 8 classic styled safari tents, delicately appointed, exuding
classic Africa; hand crafted beds dressed with the fine linen, antique
furniture, oriental carpets. A glimpse of colonial Africa. Game drives by
landrover and mokoro. Unique optional activity: walk with elephants: Two
sessions: 1) "Meet the Herd" and 2.) "Join The Herd. "
VUMBURA CAMP - Okavango Delta
Private airstrip
Vumbura, located on the northern edge of the Delta, offers diverse game viewing
opportunities with both water and land activities. Its wildlife is varied; its birding is
spectacular. Red Lechwe, waterbuck, hippos, crocodiles as well as sable, kudu, wildebeest,
buffalo and elephant complement the predatory lion, leopard, wild dog and cheetah. Game
drives in open land rovers ensure the safe sighting of predators at a discrete distance,
while a game walk with a Ranger can make your heart pound with excitement. Vumbura’s
main lounge and dining area overlooks the flood plain. Accommodations are in large luxury
tents with hot and cold running water, flush toilets, and showers.
XIGERA – Western Moremi
Reserve, Okavango
Private airstrip
Waterborne activity, game drives and walks for big game, bird watching, and fishing.
Comfortable, rustic, tented accommodation. No pool, but swimming in the clear waters of
the Delta itself. Give it a try!
XUDUM CAMP – southwestern Okavango (land and water
Located on the edge of the Xundum River, the camp consists of 8 twin-bedded
Safari tents with ensuite bathrooms. Tents have private veranda with views into
the bush. The central dining and lounge area shaded by a huge Jackelberry Tree,
is also tented. Run by Landela Safaris they have another camp called Rann’s.
XUGANA – Okavango Delta
Private airstrip
The airstrip was full of grazing red lechwe. We made a couple of passes to check and clear
the strip and did our best to stop with a minimum rollout. No big game at Xugana,
they’d said, but there were stories of elephants finding their way into cam. It was a
motorboat ride from the airstrip. When we arrived in camp we could see that the only place
more relaxed than this would be our own home in the Okavango Delta. An island. Quiet,
serene, peaceful and no early-morning wake-up call… (unless you want a dawn
exploration of the lagoon by makoro). Good fishing, too. Small, intimate. Accommodation in
individual chalets raised on stilts overlooking the lagoon.